Dry Skin — How to Choose a Cream Based on the INCI List?

Why does skin get dry?

Dry skin (xerosis) can have many causes: a genetic predisposition, a damaged skin barrier, weather conditions, overly aggressive cleansing or simply a lack of hydration. Whatever the cause, the key to improvement is understanding how moisturising ingredients work — and how to combine them effectively.

In healthy skin, the stratum corneum works like a brick wall: corneocytes (the bricks) are surrounded by intercellular lipids (the mortar) — ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. When this barrier is compromised, skin loses water (TEWL — transepidermal water loss) and becomes dry, rough and tight.

The three pillars of hydration — humectants, emollients, occlusives

An effective cream for dry skin should contain ingredients from all three groups. This is the foundation of modern dry-skin care.

Humectants — they attract water

Humectants are hygroscopic substances that draw water from the deeper layers of the skin and from the surrounding air into the stratum corneum. The most important humectants are:

• Glycerin — the gold standard, thoroughly researched, effective at just 3–5% and well tolerated
• Hyaluronic Acid / Sodium Hyaluronate — binds up to 1,000 times its weight in water; different molecular weights penetrate to different depths
• Urea — at 5–10% it hydrates and gently exfoliates; at higher concentrations (20–40%) it is strongly keratolytic
• Panthenol / D-Panthenol — hydrates and speeds up skin regeneration

Note: humectants on their own can paradoxically dry the skin out in low-humidity conditions if they are not „sealed in" with an occlusive layer. That is why applying hyaluronic acid on its own, without a cream on top, can sometimes be counterproductive.

Emollients — they smooth and soften

Emollients fill the gaps between skin cells, smoothing the skin and restoring its suppleness. This is the „pleasant" part of a cream — responsible for how the product spreads and how the skin looks after application.

• Squalane — lightweight, fast-absorbing, non-pore-clogging and biomimetic (it occurs naturally in sebum)
• Ceramides (Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP) — key lipids that build the skin barrier
• Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) — a rich emollient with vitamins A and E
• Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil) — a waxy ester whose composition closely resembles human sebum

Occlusives — they create a protective barrier

Occlusives form a physical barrier on the skin's surface that limits water loss (TEWL). This is the final step in moisturising layering.

• Petrolatum — the most effective occlusive, reducing TEWL by up to 98%; non-allergenic and, contrary to popular belief, non-comedogenic
• Lanolin — strongly occlusive, but it can cause sensitisation
• Dimethicone — a silicone occlusive, lighter than petrolatum and cosmetically elegant
• Beeswax (Cera Alba) — a natural occlusive with a dense texture

Ceramides — a special role in dry skin

Ceramides deserve a special mention. They make up around 50% of the intercellular lipids in the stratum corneum. A deficiency is directly linked to dryness, sensitivity and a disrupted skin barrier.

The most effective ceramide products contain them in a physiological ratio — ceramides + cholesterol + free fatty acids in a 3:1:1 proportion. You'll find more on caring for sensitive skin in our guide to sensitive-skin care.

Layering — the art of building up the layers

The order of application matters. The general rule is: from the lightest to the heaviest texture:

1. A serum with humectants (e.g. hyaluronic acid, niacinamide) — on damp skin
2. A moisturising cream with emollients and ceramides
3. An occlusive (petrolatum, oil) — optional, for nighttime or in extreme cold

Applying a hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin is a crucial detail — it gives the acid water to „capture" instead of pulling it from the deeper layers of the skin.

Choosing a cream by season

Skin has different needs depending on the time of year:

• Winter — frosty air plus central heating means extremely low humidity. Reach for richer creams with petrolatum, ceramides and shea butter
• Summer — higher air humidity allows for lighter formulas. Humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) work better because they have a source of water to draw on
• Transitional seasons — watch your skin and adjust. Don't stick to a single cream all year round

Urea — the underrated hero

Urea is a natural component of NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor) — the skin's own physiological moisturising complex. In cosmetics it plays a dual role:

• 5–10% — hydrates, smooths and improves the penetration of other ingredients
• 20–40% — intensively exfoliates, used on areas of hardened skin such as heels and elbows

Note: at higher concentrations, urea can sting on damaged or cracked skin. People with atopic dermatitis should start with lower concentrations. Check the profile of urea in our ingredient encyclopaedia.

What to avoid with dry skin?

• SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) in cleansing products — too harsh for dry skin
• Alcohol Denat. in high concentrations — drying
• Over-exfoliating — it damages an already weakened barrier

Extremely dry skin that doesn't respond to skincare may be a sign of a dermatological condition (atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, ichthyosis). In that case, consult a dermatologist.

Not sure what's in your cream? Check the ingredients in our ingredient search →