Perfume and the INCI List — What Hides Behind the Word “Parfum” on the Label?

You open your favourite perfume, turn the box over and look for the ingredients. On the INCI list you see one enigmatic word: Parfum (or Fragrance in the INCI nomenclature used in the USA). It looks innocent — but that single term can conceal more than 200 different chemical substances, from essential oils to synthetic aldehydes and musks. In this article we explain how to really read a perfume's composition and what to look out for.

Parfum — the legal umbrella for a fragrance composition

Under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, manufacturers are not required to disclose the full fragrance composition. The term “Parfum” functions as a collective label for the entire aromatic blend. It is an exception to the general principle of INCI transparency — justified by protecting perfumers' trade secrets.

In practice this means that a single “Parfum” entry can cover:

• Solvents — most often alcohol denat. (denatured ethanol) as a carrier.
• Fragrance substances — natural isolates (e.g. linalool from lavender) and synthetic molecules (e.g. Iso E Super, Ambroxan).
• Stabilisers and fixatives — phthalates (e.g. DEP — diethyl phthalate) used as scent fixatives.
• Colourants — giving colour to the perfume liquid.

A study carried out by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) in 2021 found that the average fragrance composition contains between 50 and 300 individual ingredients. The consumer sees only one word.

The 26 allergens from Annex III — a declaration requirement in the EU

The European Union introduced a partial exception to the “Parfum as an umbrella” rule. Under Annex III of Regulation 1223/2009, 26 fragrance substances with a proven allergenic potential must be listed by name on the label if their concentration exceeds:

• 0.001% (10 ppm) in leave-on products — perfumes, creams, lotions.
• 0.01% (100 ppm) in rinse-off products — shampoos, shower gels.

The most commonly encountered fragrance allergens include: Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Coumarin, Eugenol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Cinnamal and Hydroxycitronellal. The full list of 26 substances also includes Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Cinnamate, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional (Lilial — banned in the EU since March 2022!), Cinnamyl Alcohol, Farnesol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Isoeugenol, Methyl 2-Octynoate and Evernia Prunastri Extract (oakmoss).

It is worth noting that the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) recommended back in 2012 that the list be expanded to more than 80 allergens — but EU legislation has not kept pace with the science.

EDP, EDT, EDC — what do the abbreviations on the bottle mean?

The concentration of the fragrance composition in an alcohol solution is the cornerstone of perfume classification. A higher concentration means a more intense and longer-lasting scent — but also greater skin exposure to potential allergens.

The practical takeaway: if your skin reacts to fragrance ingredients, a lower concentration (EDC, Eau Fraîche) reduces the exposure dose — although it does not eliminate the risk of sensitisation.

IFRA standards — the invisible guardian of safety

The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) publishes regular standards limiting the concentrations of individual fragrance substances depending on the product category. The current 51st Amendment (2022) covers more than 180 substances subject to quantitative restrictions or bans.

IFRA divides products into 11 exposure categories — from products applied to the lips (category 1 — the strictest limits) to cleaning agents (category 11 — the most lenient). Perfumes applied to the skin fall into category 4, which means moderately restrictive limits.

Are IFRA standards legally binding? Formally no — they are industry self-regulation. But in practice most reputable manufacturers follow them, because failing to comply with IFRA standards can result in exclusion from supply chains (distributors require a certificate of IFRA compliance).

Synthetic musks — the hidden ingredient in most perfumes

Musks are the fragrance base of almost every perfume — responsible for “warmth”, longevity and a sense of cleanliness. Natural animal musk has been almost entirely replaced by synthetics. The three main groups are:

• Nitro musks (e.g. Musk Ketone, Musk Xylene) — banned or restricted in the EU due to phototoxicity and bioaccumulation.
• Polycyclic musks (e.g. Galaxolide/HHCB, Tonalide/AHTN) — the most widely used, but their presence in the aquatic environment and in breast milk raises concern.
• Macrocyclic musks (e.g. Habanolide, Exaltolide) — the safest and biodegradable, but more expensive to produce.

How to read a perfume's composition with awareness?

Practical tips for the consumer:

1. Look for the Annex III allergens — if you see Linalool, Limonene, Coumarin, etc. on the INCI list, the manufacturer has met the declaration requirement. The more allergens listed, the more complex the composition.
2. Check the position of “Parfum” on the INCI list — ingredients are listed in order of decreasing concentration. “Parfum” high on the list = a high concentration of the fragrance composition.
3. Pay attention to certifications — IFRA compliance and eco-certifications (COSMOS, Ecocert) impose additional restrictions on permitted ingredients.
4. Use composition-analysis tools — the PurScore search engine lets you check the safety profile of individual fragrance ingredients.

Remember: the absence of declared allergens does not mean they are absent — it may simply mean their concentration is below the declaration threshold. You'll find more about interpreting INCI lists in our guide to INCI compositions.