Argan Oil in Cosmetics — Fatty Acid Profile, Tocopherols and the Problem of Adulteration
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil: 43% oleic acid, 36% linoleic, record tocopherol content. How to tell real argan oil from a fake? Get the facts.
In the CosIng database it is listed as Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil — pressed from the seeds of the argan tree (Argania spinosa), a species endemic to south-western Morocco. UNESCO granted the argan woodlands Biosphere Reserve status in 1998, and the traditional methods of producing the oil were added to the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. But behind this romantic narrative lies a multi-billion-dollar market in which adulteration of the raw material has become a serious industrial problem.
The fatty acid profile — why this oil is so special
Chromatographic analysis of cosmetic argan oil (cold-pressed from unroasted seeds) reveals a characteristic profile:
| Fatty acid | Percentage share | Function in the skin |
|---|---|---|
| Oleic (C18:1, omega-9) | 42–47% | Boosts penetration, improves elasticity |
| Linoleic (C18:2, omega-6) | 33–37% | Repairs the lipid barrier, reduces TEWL |
| Palmitic (C16:0) | 11–15% | Emollient, component of intercellular cement |
| Stearic (C18:0) | 5–7% | Stabilises the lipid structure |
| Linolenic (C18:3, omega-3) | <0.5% | Trace amount, distinguishes it from olive oil |
The ratio of oleic to linoleic acid (roughly 1.2:1) closely mirrors the natural composition of epidermal lipids, which explains argan oil's excellent biocompatibility with the skin. By comparison: olive oil has a 7:1 ratio (oleic-dominated), while sunflower oil sits at 0.3:1 (linoleic-dominated). Argan oil occupies the optimal point of balance.
Tocopherols — record content among cosmetic oils
Argan oil contains 600–900 mg/kg of tocopherols — with gamma-tocopherol predominating (around 70% of the fraction), which is considered a more effective antioxidant than the better-known alpha form (vitamin E). For comparison: olive oil contains 100–300 mg/kg of tocopherols, and coconut oil just 5–10 mg/kg.
Gamma-tocopherol neutralises reactive nitrogen species (RNS) — a type of free radical that alpha-tocopherol handles far less effectively. This makes argan oil especially valuable as antioxidant protection under conditions of environmental stress (pollution, cigarette smoke, UV radiation).
Cosmetic vs culinary — the same plant, a different product
Two kinds of argan oil circulate on the market, and confusing them is a common mistake:
- Cosmetic oil — cold-pressed from raw (unroasted) seeds. Pale yellow, almost odourless. It retains the full profile of tocopherols and sterols. On the INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil.
- Culinary oil — pressed from seeds roasted at 100–120°C. Dark golden, with a nutty aroma. Roasting degrades some of the tocopherols (a drop of 20–40%) but creates the Maillard compounds responsible for the flavour. It should not be applied to the skin — roasting generates lipid peroxides that can cause irritation.
Unfortunately, on e-commerce platforms (including Allegro and Amazon) sellers routinely market culinary oil as "cosmetic" — you can spot it by its dark colour and pronounced nutty smell.
The adulteration problem — scale and detection methods
The report by Charrouf and Guillaume published in Alternative Medicine Review (2010) estimated that as much as 50–70% of the "argan oil" sold outside Morocco may be adulterated — diluted with cheaper oils (sunflower, soybean) or replaced with hazelnut oil, whose fatty acid profile is similar.
Methods for detecting adulteration include:
- Sterol analysis — argan oil has characteristically high levels of schottenol and spinasterol, which are absent from most plant oils.
- NIR spectroscopy — near-infrared, used in quality control by ONSSA (the Moroccan food safety authority).
- Taste test — applies to culinary oil; genuine argan oil has a bitter, nutty aftertaste, while fakes are either neutral or excessively nutty.
For consumers buying a cosmetic, a practical indicator of authenticity is the price of the raw material. A litre of certified argan oil costs cosmetic manufacturers 30–60 EUR. If "100% argan oil" sells on Allegro for 25 PLN per 100 ml, the maths simply doesn't add up.
Moroccan cooperatives — the ethical dimension
Traditionally, argan oil was produced by Berber women in south-western Morocco, cracking the hard seed shells by hand. Since the 1990s, non-governmental organisations (including the UCFA — Union des Coopératives des Femmes de l'Arganeraie) have supported the creation of women's cooperatives that control the entire production chain. By 2020 there were more than 200 such cooperatives, employing tens of thousands of women.
When looking for argan oil, it's worth checking for certifications: IGP Maroc (Indication Géographique Protégée) as well as fair trade certificates, which guarantee that the raw material comes from a controlled supply chain.
Use in cosmetics — recommendations
Argan oil works well as:
- A facial serum for dry and mature skin — a few drops before your moisturiser, on damp skin.
- A treatment oil for hair ends — oleic acid smooths the hair cuticle without weighing it down.
- An ingredient in regenerating creams — look for it in the PurScore face cream ranking to compare formulas.
Check our ingredient database to see which products contain Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil — and where it appears on the INCI list.
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FAQ
Genuine cosmetic argan oil is pale yellow, almost odourless, and leaves a faintly nutty aftertaste on the lips. Fakes often smell strongly (culinary oil) or have no smell at all (hazelnut oil). A price below 60 PLN per 100 ml should raise doubts — the pure raw material costs manufacturers 30–60 EUR per litre.
Argan oil has a low comedogenic rating (0–2 on a 0–5 scale), largely thanks to its high linoleic acid content (33–37%). Linoleic acid regulates sebum production and supports the lipid barrier. That said, on severely acne-prone skin any oil can be problematic — it's best to start with a small amount on a test patch of skin.
It's not recommended. Culinary oil is pressed from roasted seeds — roasting degrades the tocopherols and generates lipid peroxides that can irritate the skin. Cosmetic oil comes from raw seeds, preserving its full antioxidant potential.
2–3 drops are enough for the whole face. Apply to damp skin (after toner or a facial mist) so the fatty acids absorb better. Oil applied to dry skin forms an occlusive film instead of penetrating.
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