Double cleansing — is double cleansing really necessary?
What is double cleansing, when does it make sense and when is it overkill? First and second cleansing step, matching it to your skin and makeup.
What is double cleansing?
Double cleansing is a two-step method of washing the face that originated in Korean skincare (K-beauty). The first step uses an oil-based product — a cleansing oil, balm or milk — which dissolves makeup, UV filters and sebum. The second step is a gel, foam or other water-based product that removes any remaining impurities and oil left over from the first stage.
The logic is simple: oil dissolves oil (step 1), and water rinses away the rest (step 2). This means your face gets thoroughly cleansed without having to rely on a single, very harsh product.
When does double cleansing make sense?
Makeup and UV filters
Double cleansing is especially justified when you wear waterproof makeup, full-coverage foundation or silicone-based UV filters. These products form a film on the skin that a gel alone often can't remove in one go. The oil in the first step emulsifies that layer, and the gel in the second cleanses the skin of any residue.
Oily skin prone to blackheads
For oily skin that tends towards blackheads, double cleansing helps to remove excess sebum from the pores more effectively, which can reduce the formation of closed comedones. It's important, though, that the second step isn't too harsh — anionic surfactants (SLS) can make the skin's condition worse. Check the formula of your gel in our ingredient encyclopedia.
The first step — what to choose?
Suitable products for the first step include:
- Cleansing oils — they emulsify with water and rinse off easily. The ideal choice for most skin types.
- Cleansing balms — solid butters that melt on contact with the skin. They often contain additional nourishing ingredients.
- Cleansing milks — gentler than oils, but less effective against heavy waterproof makeup.
Avoid oils that don't emulsify with water (pure plant oils without surfactants) — they leave a greasy film that's hard to remove in the second step.
The second step — what to look out for?
The second product should be gentle — its job is simply to finish cleansing the skin, not to fight makeup (the first step already did that). The ideal gel for the second step:
- Contains mild amphoteric surfactants (Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Coco-Glucoside)
- Has a pH of 4.5–5.5
- Doesn't use SLS/SLES as its main surfactant
- Contains moisturising ingredients (glycerin, panthenol)
Browse face wash gels in our facial care category and compare their formulas.
When is double cleansing overkill?
Not everyone needs two cleansing steps. In a few situations a single product is enough — and two can actually do harm:
No makeup or UV filters
If you don't wear makeup or SPF creams, cleansing in the morning with just water or a mild gel is sufficient. Double cleansing in the morning is unjustified — your skin hasn't had a chance to get dirty overnight.
Dry, sensitive or compromised-barrier skin
With a damaged skin barrier (flaking, stinging, redness), every extra contact with surfactants makes things worse. In that case a single gentle cleansing oil that emulsifies with water and needs no second step is the better option.
Atopic skin
People with atopic dermatitis should minimise contact with surfactants. One gentle cleansing product is the maximum.
The most common double cleansing mistakes
- Too harsh a second step — an SLS gel after an oil means a double dose of surfactants. Choose mild formulas.
- Using it too often — double cleansing twice a day is unnecessary. In the morning, just water or a light gel will do.
- Ignoring your skin's signals — if your skin feels tight and dry after double cleansing, one of the products is too strong or the method isn't right for you.
- Using pure coconut oil as the first step — coconut oil is comedogenic and doesn't emulsify with water, so it leaves a pore-clogging film.
Summary
Double cleansing is an effective cleansing method, but it isn't universal. It makes sense with makeup, UV filters and oily skin — provided both products are well chosen. For sensitive or dry skin, or when you're not wearing makeup, a single cleansing step is enough and safer. Before you decide, check the formulas of your products — type the name into the search and assess whether the surfactants are too strong.
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FAQ
No. In the morning your skin isn't burdened with makeup or UV filters — just water or a gentle cleansing gel is enough. Double cleansing in the morning needlessly stresses the hydrolipidic barrier.
Technically olive oil will dissolve makeup, but it doesn't contain emulsifiers — it won't rinse off with water and will leave a greasy film. It's better to choose a dedicated cleansing oil with emulsifying surfactants.
Once a day — in the evening, after a day spent wearing makeup or a UV filter. Doing it twice (morning and evening) is too intense for most skin types.
It can help, because the first step (the oil) removes sebum from the pores more effectively than a gel alone. However, using gentle products is key — harsh surfactants can make the problem worse.
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