Does Coconut Oil Clog Pores? The Comedogenicity of Cosmetic Ingredients

What is comedogenicity and where does the scale come from?

Comedogenicity is a substance's tendency to trigger blackheads and whiteheads (comedones) by blocking the openings of hair follicles. The concept was popularised by the studies of Kligman and Kwon in the 1970s and 1980s, in which substances were tested on rabbit ear skin – a model now regarded as a poor match for human skin. The comedogenicity scale (0–5) is still widely cited online, but its scientific value when applied to finished cosmetic products is limited.

This is an important point: the comedogenicity of a single ingredient does not determine the comedogenicity of the entire cosmetic. The concentration of the substance in the formula, the carriers, the emulsifiers and other ingredients all matter just as much. Even so, knowing which ingredients are potentially comedogenic helps you make informed buying decisions – especially if you have acne. Browse the PurScore ingredient encyclopaedia to check every component of your cosmetic.

Coconut oil – properties and fatty acid profile

Coconut oil (INCI: Cocos Nucifera Oil) is extracted from the flesh of the coconut. It stands out for its exceptionally high content of saturated fatty acids:

• Lauric acid (C12) – around 45–50% of the composition; it has antibacterial properties but is the main culprit behind coconut oil's high comedogenicity.
• Myristic acid (C14) – around 15–20%; also comedogenic.
• Caprylic acid (C8) and capric acid (C10) – around 15% combined; smaller molecules that are less comedogenic.

On the Kligman scale, coconut oil scores 4/5, placing it among the most strongly comedogenic oils used in cosmetics. For comparison: jojoba oil (technically a wax) scores 2/5, and rosehip oil scores 1/5.

Does coconut oil really clog everyone's pores?

The answer is: not for everyone, but for some people – yes. The key factors are:

• Skin type – people with oily, combination and acne-prone skin are far more susceptible to comedones triggered by coconut oil. Dry skin is less likely to react by forming blackheads.
• Where you apply it – on the body, hands or hair (as a finishing touch), coconut oil is much safer than on the face, where the sebaceous glands are more active.
• How you apply it – a thick film of oil applied to the face blocks the pore openings far more effectively than a light layer massaged in as a cleansing oil (oil cleansing) that is then rinsed off.
• Individual skin microbiota – lauric acid inhibits the growth of Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes), which is beneficial, but it also disturbs the balance of the microbiome, which may aggravate inflammation in some people.

What do the clinical studies say?

The existing clinical studies involving humans (rather than rabbit ears) paint a more nuanced picture. Some work confirms that coconut oil used as an emollient can intensify the formation of blackheads in people with acne, while other studies suggest that a rinse-off formula (cleansing oil) may be relatively safe. The lack of large, randomised trials makes it hard to draw firm conclusions.

The safety of cosmetics on the EU market is governed by Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009. It does not include a list of ingredients banned on the grounds of comedogenicity – coconut oil is an ingredient permitted without restrictions. Responsibility for product safety rests with the manufacturer, who is required to carry out a Safety Assessment before placing a cosmetic on the market.

Who is coconut oil safe for, and who should be cautious?

Coconut oil is generally safe for:

• dry and normal facial skin
• body skin (moisturising, protection)
• hair and scalp (mask, protection against protein loss)
• lips (lip balms)

However, it should be avoided or used with care by people with:

• oily and combination skin
• common acne (Acne vulgaris)
• a tendency to develop blackheads (DPOW – dilated pore of Winer)
• rosacea (here the risk is lower, but individual reactions vary)

It is worth reviewing product ingredient lists in the facial oils category on PurScore.pl and checking whether coconut oil appears as ingredient no. 1–5 (higher positions = higher concentration).

Alternatives to coconut oil for acne-prone skin

If you are looking for an oil with low comedogenic potential, it is worth considering:

• Rosehip oil (Rosa Canina Fruit Oil) – comedogenicity 1/5, rich in linoleic acid (omega-6) and carotenoids (provitamin A).
• Hemp oil (Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil) – comedogenicity 0/5, with an ideal omega-6 to omega-3 ratio.
• Passion fruit seed oil (Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil) – comedogenicity 1/5.
• Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil) – technically a liquid wax, comedogenicity 2/5, well tolerated by oily skin.
• Squalane (Squalane) – comedogenicity 0–1/5, a very light texture, excellent for acne-prone skin.

An analysis of each of these oils is available in our ingredient database.

Summary

Coconut oil has high comedogenic potential (4/5 on the Kligman scale), which means it can clog pores and aggravate acne in people with oily or acne-prone skin. For dry skin, the body and hair it is considerably safer. The bottom line is: it depends on your skin type and how you use it. Before you buy a product with coconut oil, check where it sits on the ingredient list.

This article is for informational purposes only. If you have concerns about acne or how your skin reacts to cosmetics, consult a dermatologist.

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