Are Kojic Acid and Arbutin Safe? Brightening Hyperpigmentation

Kojic acid and arbutin — where do they come from and how do they work?

Skin hyperpigmentation is one of the most common aesthetic skin concerns, caused by the excessive production of melanin by melanocytes. Both kojic acid and arbutin inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, the enzyme key to the process of melanogenesis — which is why they are so popular in brightening formulations.

Kojic acid (INCI: Kojic Acid) is a natural metabolite produced during the fermentation of the fungus Aspergillus oryzae, the same fungus used to make sake. Arbutin (INCI: Arbutin) is a hydroquinone glycoside found naturally in the leaves of bearberry and pear. There are two forms: the more stable alpha-arbutin and beta-arbutin, which raises slightly more controversy because of its higher potential to release hydroquinone.

What does EU law say about kojic acid?

Kojic acid is an ingredient regulated under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products. In its opinion SCCS/1645/21, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) confirmed the safety of kojic acid at concentrations up to 1% in leave-on products for the face and hands.

• Maximum concentration permitted by the EU: 1% (leave-on products for the face and hands)
• Must be used with a UV filter — kojic acid makes the skin more sensitive to sunlight
• May cause contact dermatitis in predisposed individuals
• Not recommended for pregnant women due to a lack of sufficient data

Arbutin — a safe alternative to hydroquinone

Hydroquinone is banned in consumer cosmetics across the EU. Arbutin, regarded as its gentler substitute, is subject to separate regulation. In its opinion SCCS/1548/15, the SCCS deemed alpha-arbutin safe for consumers at concentrations up to 2% in face products and 0.5% in body products.

Beta-arbutin at higher concentrations can release hydroquinone in the skin, which prompts caution among regulators. In practice, reputable cosmetics manufacturers use alpha-arbutin within the limits set by the SCCS, making it an ingredient with a good safety profile.

Can you combine kojic acid with arbutin?

Yes — both ingredients work synergistically to inhibit tyrosinase. Combining them can enhance the brightening effect. However, using them alongside AHAs (e.g. glycolic or lactic acid) increases the risk of irritation, so it is worth proceeding with caution and introducing new products into your routine gradually.

Who should avoid these ingredients?

• People with a contact allergy to kojic acid or hydroquinone
• Pregnant and breastfeeding women — consultation with a doctor is recommended
• People with very sensitive skin — do a patch test before regular use
• Children — brightening products are not intended for them

Note: this article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. If you experience persistent hyperpigmentation or suspect an allergic reaction, consult a dermatologist.

How to choose an effective brightening serum?

When looking for a face serum with kojic acid or arbutin, pay attention to:

• The concentration of the active ingredient (kojic acid max. 1%, alpha-arbutin 0.5–2%)
• Its position on the INCI list — the higher up, the higher the concentration
• Packaging that protects against oxidation (dark glass, airless pump)
• The presence of antioxidants (vitamin C, E, niacinamide) that boost the effect

You can check every ingredient in our ingredient encyclopedia, where you will find safety ratings based on CosIng data and SCCS opinions.

Summary

Kojic acid and arbutin are ingredients permitted under EU cosmetics law and effective in the fight against hyperpigmentation, provided they are used at appropriate concentrations and with SPF protection. Sensitive individuals, pregnant women and people with allergies should seek a dermatologist's opinion before using them.

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