Centella asiatica (CICA) — 4 Key Compounds and the Skin-Healing Mechanism

In traditional Ayurvedic medicine, Centella asiatica (gotu kola) carries the nickname “tiger herb” — legend has it that wounded tigers rolled in its leaves to speed up healing. While the anecdote is hard to verify, modern pharmacology confirms it: centella is one of the best-documented plant-based ingredients in dermatology, with more than 200 papers in peer-reviewed journals. In Korean skincare, under the abbreviation CICA, it has become a megatrend worth hundreds of millions of dollars a year.

4 key active compounds

The efficacy of Centella asiatica doesn’t come from a single substance, but from the synergy of four triterpenoids, which together are known as titrated extract of Centella asiatica (TECA) or Centella Triterpenic Fraction (CTF):

1. Madecassoside

A triterpenoid glycoside, the most abundant active compound in centella leaves (making up 25–50% of TECA). An in vitro study published in Planta Medica (2012) showed that madecassoside inhibits the production of interleukin-1β (IL-1β) and tumour necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α) — two key pro-inflammatory cytokines. In practice this means a strong anti-inflammatory effect that soothes redness, post-acne irritation and erythema.

2. Asiaticoside

The second most abundant glycoside, with an exceptional influence on collagen synthesis. Asiaticoside activates the TGF-β receptor (transforming growth factor beta), which stimulates fibroblasts to produce type I and type III collagen. A 2015 clinical study (International Wound Journal) found that applying a cream containing 0.4% asiaticoside accelerated the healing of post-surgical wounds by 32% compared with placebo.

3. Madecassic Acid

The aglycone of madecassoside — a sugar-free form, which increases its lipophilicity and penetration through the skin barrier. Madecassic acid stimulates the synthesis of fibronectin — a structural glycoprotein of the extracellular matrix that acts as a “scaffold” for newly forming collagen fibres. It also inhibits the MMP-1 and MMP-3 enzymes that degrade existing collagen.

4. Asiatic Acid

The most lipophilic of the four, with the best penetration through the stratum corneum. It exhibits antioxidant properties — neutralising free radicals (ROS) generated by UVA radiation. A 2018 in vitro study (Journal of Cellular Physiology) showed that asiatic acid at a concentration of 10 μM reduced lipid peroxidation in keratinocytes by 45%.

The skin-healing mechanism

Centella asiatica works across all three phases of healing:

1. Inflammatory phase (0–3 days) — madecassoside curbs the excessive inflammatory response, reducing pro-inflammatory cytokines without completely blocking the inflammation needed to clear the wound.
2. Proliferative phase (3–21 days) — asiaticoside and madecassic acid stimulate fibroblasts to produce collagen and fibronectin, building new connective tissue. At the same time they support angiogenesis — the formation of new blood vessels supplying the regenerating area.
3. Remodelling phase (21 days – 2 years) — asiatic acid regulates the ratio of type III collagen (immature) to type I (mature), minimising the risk of hypertrophic scars and keloids.

The CICA trend in K-beauty

The term “CICA” (short for Centella asiatica or the Latin cicatrix — scar) was popularised by the Korean brand Dr. Jart+ in 2016 with its Cicapair line. Since then practically every Korean brand has launched CICA products: from creams to serums, masks and even foundations.

CICA’s popularity stems from its versatility — it works for almost every skin type:

• Acne-prone skin — soothes inflammation, supports the healing of breakouts
• Sensitive skin — strengthens the barrier, reduces reactivity
• Mature skin — stimulates collagen, improves elasticity
• Post-procedure skin — speeds up regeneration after peels and laser treatments

Effective concentrations — what to look for

Not every product with Centella asiatica on the label is equally effective. Key parameters:

• Total extract (Centella Asiatica Extract) — should make up at least 40–60% of the formula to ensure a therapeutic concentration of triterpenoids. Many products list “Centella” high on the INCI list but in reality contain a diluted water extract.
• TECA / Titrated Extract — a standardised extract containing 40% asiaticoside, 30% madecassic acid and 30% asiatic acid. The effective concentration of TECA in the finished product is 0.1–1%.
• Isolated madecassoside — effective in clinical studies from 0.05%, optimally 0.1–0.4%.

Check in our ingredient database whether your product contains a standardised extract or a diluted hydrolate.

Limitations and interactions

Centella asiatica is generally very well tolerated, but a few aspects are worth keeping in mind:

• Contact allergy — rare, but possible. Sesquiterpene lactones present in the raw extract can cause sensitisation in 0.5–1% of the population.
• Interaction with retinoids — beneficial. CICA soothes the irritation caused by tretinoin, which is why many dermatologists recommend combining the two ingredients.
• Photostability — triterpenoids are stable under UV exposure, but always apply sunscreen as the final step of your routine.

Summary

Centella asiatica is a rare case of a cosmetic ingredient whose marketing popularity goes hand in hand with solid scientific evidence. Its four key triterpenoids work synergistically across every phase of skin healing, and its safety profile is one of the best among plant-based actives. The key to efficacy? A standardised TECA extract at a concentration of at least 0.1%, not a diluted centella hydrolate at the end of the ingredient list.