Winter Skincare: Occlusion and the Skin Barrier

Why is winter the enemy of your skin?

The winter season puts our skin to a unique test. Temperatures drop below freezing, air humidity falls dramatically, and biting wind irritates the epidermis even further. On top of that, the dry air in heated rooms acts like an invisible sponge — drawing moisture out of the skin's surface and leaving you with a feeling of tightness, flaking and discomfort.

The hydrolipid barrier — the skin's natural protective layer made up of lipids, ceramides and the natural moisturising factor (NMF) — becomes weakened in winter. When this barrier is damaged, the skin loses water through a process known as TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss). The result? Dryness, redness and even micro-cracks that open the door to irritation and inflammation.

Occlusion — the key to winter skincare

Occlusion is a technique that involves applying a layer of ingredients to the skin that form a physical barrier to prevent water loss. In summer this might sound like a recipe for clogged pores, but in winter occlusion becomes your best ally.

The most effective occlusive ingredients include:

• Petrolatum (petroleum jelly) — the queen of occlusion, reducing TEWL by up to 98%. Contrary to the myths, it does not clog pores when used correctly.
• Lanolin — a natural wax from sheep's wool that closely mimics the skin's own lipids.
• Shea butter — rich in fatty acids and vitamins A and E, it nourishes and protects at the same time.
• Dimethicone — a silicone that forms a breathable protective layer, lightweight and non-greasy to the touch.
• Beeswax — a natural occlusive with anti-inflammatory properties.

Want to check whether your cream contains these ingredients? Use our ingredient database to understand what really lies behind your cosmetic.

Richer creams — not just marketing

Dermatologists unanimously recommend switching to richer formulas during the winter season. This is not a marketing gimmick but a necessity dictated by the skin's physiology. The lightweight gels and oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions that work well in summer simply don't provide enough protection in winter.

For winter, it's worth reaching for face creams with a richer texture, ideally water-in-oil (W/O) formulas. These contain more of the oil phase, which forms a protective lipid mantle on the skin. Look for products containing:

• Ceramides — rebuild the skin barrier
• Fatty acids (linoleic, oleic) — replenish the epidermal lipids
• Cholesterol — the third pillar of a healthy barrier
• Squalane — a lightweight emollient that is exceptionally well tolerated

Protection against wind and frost

The direct effect of wind and frost on exposed skin can lead to frostbite, irritation and lasting damage to the blood vessels. That's why it's so important to apply protective creams before heading outside — ideally 20–30 minutes before exposure to the cold, so the formula has time to absorb and form a protective layer.

Creams with SPF are recommended in winter too, because UVA radiation is present all year round and snow reflects up to 80% of the sun's rays. If you have sensitive skin, take a look at our guide to sensitive skincare, where we discuss the ingredients worth paying attention to.

Central heating — skin's silent enemy

In winter we spend as much as 90% of our time in heated rooms, where air humidity can drop below 20% (the optimum for skin is 40–60%). In such conditions, even the best moisturiser may not be enough, because humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin need moisture from their surroundings in order to draw it into the skin.

The solution is to combine cosmetic hydration with humidifying the air — something we cover in more detail in a separate article. It's also worth avoiding overly hot baths and showers, which strip away the skin's lipid mantle even further.

A step-by-step winter routine

1. Cleansing — a gentle milk or oil instead of an SLS gel.
2. Toner — alcohol-free, with ceramides or niacinamide.
3. Hydrating serum — with hyaluronic acid or urea.
4. Occlusive cream — a rich W/O formula with ceramides.
5. SPF — in the morning, even on cloudy days.
6. An occlusive layer — in the evening, a thin layer of petroleum jelly or balm on the driest areas.

Summary

Winter skincare is, above all, about protecting the skin barrier and preventing water loss. Occlusion, richer formulas and the right air humidity are the three pillars on which to build your winter routine. Don't wait until your skin starts to protest — start acting preventively.

Not sure which cream to choose for winter? Search for products in our database and compare their formulas before you decide to buy.