Dry Scalp — Causes, Care and Key INCI Ingredients

Dry scalp — a common and underrated problem

Itching, tightness, fine white flakes on your shoulders — these are symptoms that many people automatically associate with dandruff. In reality, a dry scalp (xerosis) is a separate condition with different causes that calls for a different approach to care. Confusing the two leads to using the wrong products, which can make matters worse.

Dry scalp vs. dandruff — how to tell them apart

This is a fundamental distinction that determines which product you should reach for:

Dry scalp (xerosis)

• Fine, white, dry flakes
• The skin feels tight, drawn and itchy
• No redness or inflammation
• Symptoms worsen in winter and in dry air
• Cause: insufficient sebum production, a damaged lipid barrier

Dandruff (Pityriasis)

• Dry dandruff — fine flakes accompanied by redness and irritation
• Oily dandruff — large, yellowish, greasy scales with an over-oily scalp
• Cause: overgrowth of the Malassezia fungus, a disrupted scalp microflora
• Requires antifungal ingredients, not just hydrating ones

If in doubt, it is worth consulting a dermatologist — no cosmetic can replace a professional diagnosis.

Causes of a dry scalp

A dry scalp can have many causes, and it pays to identify them, because changing your habits is often more effective than the most expensive shampoo:

• Overly harsh surfactants — SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) can strip too much oil from the scalp. It may be worth switching to gentler alternatives.
• Washing too often — daily washing with strong shampoos disrupts the lipid barrier
• Hot water — dissolves the natural protective lipids
• Indoor heating — dry winter air dehydrates the skin
• A hot-air hairdryer — direct exposure to heat
• Skin conditions — atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema
• Nutritional deficiencies — omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin D, zinc

Key INCI ingredients for a dry scalp

Piroctone Olamine

INCI name: Piroctone Olamine. A mild antifungal and antibacterial agent, considerably gentler than Zinc Pyrithione or ketoconazole. It is effective both for dandruff and for a dry scalp with a microbial component. It regulates the scalp's microflora without drying it out. It is often found in premium-class care shampoos.

Urea

INCI name: Urea. A powerful humectant and keratolytic in one — at low concentrations (up to 5%) it hydrates, while at higher ones (5–10%) it gently exfoliates. For a dry scalp, concentrations of 3–5% are ideal. Urea binds water within the epidermis and helps rebuild the lipid barrier. It is often used in dermatological shampoos.

Panthenol (Panthenol / D-Panthenol)

INCI name: Panthenol. Provitamin B5, which is converted into pantothenic acid in the skin. It hydrates, soothes irritation and supports the regeneration of the epidermis. One of the best-researched and safest soothing ingredients. It is effective both for the scalp and for the hair itself.

Niacinamide

INCI name: Niacinamide. Vitamin B3, which strengthens the skin's lipid barrier, reduces TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and has an anti-inflammatory effect. It appears more and more often in scalp shampoos and tonics.

Allantoin

INCI name: Allantoin. A soothing, calming ingredient that helps relieve irritation and supports regeneration. It is well tolerated even by atopic skin. Combined with Panthenol, it often forms a "soothing duo" in shampoos for sensitive scalps.

Other ingredients worth noting

• Glycerin — a humectant that draws water into the epidermis
• Sodium PCA — a natural component of the NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor)
• Bisabolol — a soothing ingredient derived from chamomile
• Salicylic Acid — at low concentrations it gently exfoliates dead skin cells
• Zinc PCA — regulates sebum production and has an antibacterial effect

Check which of these ingredients your shampoo contains — look them up in our INCI encyclopaedia.

Ingredients to avoid with a dry scalp

• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) — a strong surfactant that dries out the lipid barrier
• Alcohol Denat. — ethyl alcohol, strongly drying
• Menthol — in large amounts it can be irritating
• Strong essential oils — eucalyptus, peppermint, tea tree at high concentrations

Care habits for a dry scalp

1. Wash your hair with lukewarm water — hot water dissolves the natural lipid film
2. Switch your surfactant — move to shampoos with Coco-Glucoside or SCI
3. Don't wash daily — give your scalp time to rebuild its barrier
4. Use a scalp tonic/serum — with Panthenol, Niacinamide or Urea
5. Humidify the air — especially in winter, when heating dries it out
6. Limit blow-drying — or use the lowest heat setting

When should you see a dermatologist?

If your symptoms do not improve after 4–6 weeks despite a change in care, or if redness, inflammation, hair loss or severe itching appears, a dermatological consultation is essential. A dry scalp can be a symptom of systemic conditions (hypothyroidism, diabetes) or dermatological ones (psoriasis, atopic dermatitis).

Use the PurScore search tool to analyse your shampoo's formula for soothing and potentially irritating ingredients.

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