Squalane — a Lightweight Emollient Suitable for Every Skin Type

Squalane and squalene — one letter, a huge difference

Squalene is a natural lipid found in sebum (skin oil) — it makes up roughly 12% of its composition. It is produced by the sebaceous glands and serves an antioxidant function, protecting the skin from the oxidation of surface lipids. As we age, squalene production declines, which contributes to dryness and a loss of skin elasticity.

The problem: squalene is highly unstable. It contains six double bonds, which makes it prone to oxidation when exposed to UV and oxygen. Oxidised squalene (squalene peroxide) is comedogenic — it can clog pores and contribute to the formation of blackheads.

Squalane is the hydrogenated form of squalene — all of the double bonds have been saturated with hydrogen. The result: the molecule is stable, resistant to oxidation, non-comedogenic and has a far longer shelf life. On the INCI list, look for: Squalane (not Squalene).

Sources of squalane — olives, sugarcane and controversies

Squalane from shark liver — history and ethics

Historically, squalane was obtained from the livers of deep-sea sharks (mainly species in the Centrophoridae family), which contain an exceptionally high concentration of squalene — up to 80% of the liver's mass. The cosmetics industry was one of its main consumers, which contributed to overfishing and put many species at risk.

Although most reputable cosmetic brands have switched to plant-based sources, shark squalane is still present on the market — particularly in cheap cosmetics from East Asia. The issue is that there is no obligation to declare the source on the INCI list: both plant-based and animal-derived squalane simply appear as “Squalane”.

Olive squalane

Olives contain 0.1–0.7% squalene, which is isolated from olive-oil production waste (distillation by-products) and then hydrogenated into squalane. This is the most common plant-based source on the European market. Olive squalane is chemically identical to shark squalane — the difference is purely ethical and environmental.

Sugarcane squalane

A newer source that uses the fermentation of sugars from sugarcane by genetically modified yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae). The process is more efficient and reproducible than extraction from olives. Companies such as Amyris (the Neossance brand) specialise in this technology. Sugarcane squalane is promoted as the most sustainable source.

Why is squalane exceptional as an emollient?

Emollients are substances that smooth and soften the skin by replenishing surface lipids. Squalane stands out from other emollients thanks to several qualities:

• Non-comedogenic — squalane has a comedogenicity rating of 0–1 (on a scale of 0–5). It does not clog pores even in its pure form, which is rare among oils.
• Biomimetic — as a natural form of the squalene found in sebum, squalane is recognised by the skin as its “own” lipid. It absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy film.
• Lightweight texture — squalane has the consistency of a light oil (not to be confused with butters or waxes). It is ideal for people who need hydration but cannot tolerate heavy creams.
• Stability — the absence of double bonds means resistance to oxidation. Squalane does not go rancid, requires no antioxidant preservatives and has a long shelf life.
• Versatility — suitable for dry skin (as an emollient), oily skin (does not clog pores), sensitive skin (no irritation) and mature skin (supports the skin barrier).

Check which of your cosmetics contain squalane in our ingredient encyclopedia.

Squalane in the context of anti-aging

Squalane itself is not a typical anti-aging ingredient in the sense of stimulating collagen or reducing wrinkles. Its role in anti-aging care is supportive:

1. Strengthening the skin barrier — a healthy barrier is the foundation of any active ingredient's effectiveness. Without it, retinol, vitamin C and exfoliating acids cause irritation instead of regeneration.
2. Reducing TEWL — squalane limits transepidermal water loss, maintaining the optimal hydration that is essential for the skin's repair processes.
3. A carrier for active ingredients — squalane is an excellent solvent for lipophilic ingredients (e.g. retinol, vitamin E, coenzyme Q10), improving their penetration.
4. Antioxidant action — although weaker than vitamin C or E, squalane shows moderate antioxidant properties, protecting skin lipids from peroxidation.

In an anti-aging routine, squalane works best as the final step — applied after a serum with active ingredients, as an occlusive-emollient layer that seals in hydration. You can read more about building a routine in our guide to active ingredients.

How to choose a good squalane?

1. Check the source — choose brands that declare a plant-based origin (olives or sugarcane). Look for “shark-free” certifications or source information on the manufacturer's website.
2. Pure squalane — available as a single-ingredient product (100% Squalane). Ideal for mixing with a serum or applying as the last step of your routine.
3. Within a cream formula — squalane in creams acts as an emollient. Look for it in face creams with a good ingredient list.
4. On the INCI list — make sure you see Squalane (stable) and not Squalene (unstable, comedogenic in its oxidised form).

Summary

Squalane is one of the most versatile and safe emollients in skincare. Lightweight, non-comedogenic, stable and biomimetic — suitable for literally every skin type. Choose products with plant-based squalane (olive or sugarcane), avoid shark-liver sources and remember the difference between squalane (Squalane) and squalene (Squalene) — that single letter makes a huge difference.

Check whether your cosmetics contain squalane →