Retinol vs Bakuchiol — Comparing Potency and Tolerability

The debate between retinol and bakuchiol has raged ever since the latter hit the market as a natural retinol. In reality, these two ingredients work through different mechanisms, have distinct safety profiles and serve different purposes. Comparing them calls for scientific data, not marketing claims.

This article is for informational purposes only. Anyone with dermatological concerns should discuss the choice of active ingredients with a dermatologist or physician.

Retinol — the gold standard of anti-aging

Retinol (INCI: Retinol) is one of the most thoroughly studied active substances in dermatology and cosmetology. Once applied to the skin, it undergoes enzymatic conversion: retinol — retinaldehyde — retinoic acid (tretinoin).

Retinol's key mechanisms of action:

• Activation of RAR and RXR receptors — regulates the expression of genes responsible for cell division and collagen synthesis.
• Inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) — the collagen-degrading enzymes are suppressed, slowing the structural ageing of the skin.
• Normalisation of keratinisation — speeds up epidermal renewal and unclogs pores.

Look for retinol products at an optimal concentration in the face serum category on PurScore.pl.

Bakuchiol — what is it really?

Bakuchiol (INCI: Bakuchiol) is a meroterpene isolated from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia (babchi) plant. Chemically, it has nothing in common with retinol — it is a terpene, not a vitamin A. It achieves retinoid-like effects by activating the same RAR receptors as retinoic acid, but through a different binding mechanism.

Scientific research on bakuchiol:

• A study by Chaudhuri and Bojanowski (2014) showed that bakuchiol upregulates the expression of type I, III and IV collagen genes as well as fibronectin.
• A randomised clinical trial by Dhaliwal et al. (2019, British Journal of Dermatology) compared 0.5% bakuchiol twice daily with 0.5% retinol once daily — both ingredients delivered comparable wrinkle reduction after 12 weeks, with bakuchiol being significantly better tolerated.

Comparison: tolerability and side effects

Retinol

• Common side effects: dryness, flaking, redness and increased UV sensitivity — SPF is essential.
• A 2-6 week adaptation period is required.
• Contraindicated during pregnancy — the SCCS has confirmed a risk of teratogenicity; the concentration limit in cosmetics is 0.3% in stay-on products, per SCCS/1576/16.

Bakuchiol

• Excellent tolerability — in the cited study it caused significantly less flaking and irritation than retinol.
• No adaptation period needed in typical cases.
• Does not cause photosensitivity — it can be used in the morning.
• Safety during pregnancy — it carries none of the controversy associated with vitamin A; however, given the limited clinical data in this group, consulting a physician is recommended.

When to choose retinol and when to choose bakuchiol?

• Retinol — for those with normal or oily skin that tolerates active ingredients and who are looking for the strongest over-the-counter anti-aging ingredient available.
• Bakuchiol — for those with sensitive, reactive skin, rosacea, or for anyone who wants to start their journey with anti-aging ingredients without the risk of irritation. It is also the safer choice during pregnancy, following medical advice.

Browse the available products in the PurScore.pl ingredient encyclopaedia, where you'll find a side-by-side overview of bakuchiol and retinol products together with INCI ratings.

Can you combine bakuchiol with retinol?

Yes — one interesting approach is to combine low concentrations of retinol with bakuchiol in a single formula or in complementary products. Bakuchiol can soothe retinol-induced irritation and amplify the anti-aging effect through synergistic activation of RAR receptors. Such formulas are becoming increasingly common in the premium segment. Explore the range of bakuchiol-containing facial oils in the face oil category on PurScore.pl.

How to read the INCI list of anti-aging products?

1. Check where the active ingredient sits on the INCI list — the higher up, the higher the concentration.
2. Note the form of retinol: Retinol is the full form, Retinyl Palmitate is a weaker form, and Retinal is a stronger form, closer to retinoic acid.
3. Check for the presence of stabilisers — retinol oxidises quickly without proper protection from light and oxygen.

Practical tips — how to get started?

If you're just beginning your journey with anti-aging ingredients, here's a proven approach:

• Start with bakuchiol — use it morning and evening for 8-12 weeks. It's a safe start that lets you gauge how your skin responds to active ingredients.
• Add retinol in the evening — if you want to boost the anti-aging effect after bakuchiol, introduce a low-concentration retinol (0.025-0.05%) 1-2 times a week. Use bakuchiol in the morning.
• SPF is a must — both ingredients are best used with SPF 30+ during the day; with retinol it's a requirement, with bakuchiol it's good practice.
• Watch your skin — 12 weeks is the minimum needed to assess results. Photos every 4 weeks will help you spot subtle changes.

Summary

Retinol and bakuchiol aren't rivals but ingredients with different action profiles. Retinol remains the gold standard of anti-aging — backed by decades of clinical research and undeniable efficacy. Bakuchiol is a valuable complement and, for those with sensitive skin or during pregnancy, a safer alternative. The best strategy combines both ingredients, harnessing the tolerability of bakuchiol during the day and the effectiveness of retinol in the nighttime routine.

Check the ingredients in your cosmetic →