Chapped Lips: What Ingredients Should a Good Lip Balm Have?

Why do lips crack in winter?

The skin on your lips is unique — it is up to 10 times thinner than the skin on the rest of your face and is practically devoid of sebaceous glands. This means that lips do not produce sebum, the natural oil that protects the rest of the skin from moisture loss. In winter, when humidity drops and frost and wind batter the delicate vermilion border, the lips are on the front line.

On top of that, many people instinctively lick their lips, which paradoxically makes things worse. Saliva evaporates quickly, taking what little moisture remains with it and leaving behind digestive enzymes that irritate already weakened skin.

Ingredients that really help

Lanolin

Lanolin is a natural wax derived from sheep's wool, and in terms of chemical structure it most closely resembles the lipids of human skin. It is an excellent occlusive — it forms a flexible protective layer that locks in moisture while still allowing the skin to breathe. Medical-grade (ultra-purified) lanolin is safe even for people with allergies and is the gold standard in lip balms.

Shea butter

Rich in fatty acids (oleic, stearic, palmitic) as well as vitamins A and E. Shea butter not only moisturises and protects, but also supports the regeneration of damaged skin. It is gentle enough to be applied even to very irritated, chapped lips. Check our ingredient database to see how shea butter rates for safety.

Beeswax (cera alba)

A natural occlusive that forms a thin protective layer on the lips. Beeswax also has anti-inflammatory properties, which matters when your lip skin is cracked and irritated. Many natural balms build their formula precisely around beeswax combined with plant oils.

Ceramides

Ceramides are lipids naturally present in the epidermis, acting as the cement that binds the skin's surface cells together. Balms with ceramides not only protect the lips superficially but help rebuild a damaged skin barrier from within. They are especially recommended for anyone with chronically dry lips.

Petroleum jelly (petrolatum)

The simplest and at the same time one of the most effective occlusive ingredients. Petroleum jelly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by up to 98%. Applied to damp lips (for example, after a serum with hyaluronic acid), it acts like a seal, trapping moisture in the skin. That is why dermatologists have for years recommended plain petroleum jelly as the best overnight "balm".

Panthenol (provitamin B5)

Panthenol speeds up skin regeneration and soothes irritated skin. On contact with the skin it converts into pantothenic acid, which supports the body's natural repair processes. It is an ideal ingredient in lip balms designed for intensive recovery.

Menthol and camphor — do they really dry out your lips?

This is one of the most frequently repeated claims in the world of skincare, and to a large extent it is justified. Menthol and camphor give a momentary sense of freshness and "hydration", but in reality they can irritate the delicate skin of the lips, especially when it is already damaged.

The mechanism is as follows: menthol and camphor are irritants that produce a cooling sensation by activating the TRPM8 receptors. That pleasant feeling masks the actual irritation. What is more, both substances can compromise the lipid barrier, leading to increased water loss and a vicious circle — the more often you apply such a balm, the more your lips demand reapplication.

That said, not every balm with a touch of menthol is automatically bad. The problem mainly concerns products in which menthol or camphor appear high on the ingredient list (INCI), indicating a higher concentration. A small amount combined with strong occlusives and emollients does not have to be harmful.

If you have sensitive skin, however, it is better to avoid these ingredients altogether and choose balms with a simple, gentle formula.

What else should you watch out for?

• Avoid balms with alcohol denat. — it dries out the skin and irritates chapped lips.
• Avoid artificial colourants and strong fragrances — potential allergens with no place in a skincare product.
• Look for SPF in a daytime balm — lips are especially exposed to UV radiation and have no natural melanin protection.
• Use occlusion at night — a thick layer of petroleum jelly or lanolin that works all night long.

How to apply lip balm correctly

Even the best balm will not work if you apply it incorrectly. Here are a few rules:

1. Do not lick your lips before applying — saliva makes things worse.
2. Apply the balm to slightly damp lips — for example, after drinking water.
3. Do not wipe off the old layer — apply the new one on top of it.
4. Use it regularly, not just once your lips are already chapped — prevention is key.
5. At night, apply a thicker layer of an occlusive balm or plain petroleum jelly.

Summary

A good winter lip balm is one that contains occlusive ingredients (petroleum jelly, beeswax, lanolin) combined with emollients (shea butter, plant oils) and reparative ingredients (panthenol, ceramides). Avoid products with menthol, camphor and alcohol, especially when your lips are already chapped.

Want to compare the formulas of lip balms? Use our search tool and find a product that will truly care for your lips this winter.