Hair Oiling — Which Oils to Choose for Your Porosity?
Learn the difference between penetrating and sealing oils, how to match an oil to your hair's porosity, and what to look for in the INCI list.
What is hair oiling?
Oiling is a care method that involves applying plant oils to the hair and/or scalp to moisturise, nourish and protect. It's one of the oldest care techniques, and in recent years it has enjoyed a real renaissance — but to deliver results, you need to match the oil to your hair's porosity.
Not every oil works the same way. Some penetrate the hair's structure (penetrating oils), while others form a protective layer on its surface (sealing oils). The right choice depends on the condition of your hair, and the key is understanding porosity.
Hair porosity — what is it?
Porosity describes how raised the cuticle scales are on the hair's surface, which affects its ability to absorb and retain moisture:
- Low porosity — the cuticles lie tightly closed, so the hair is hard to moisturise but holds moisture well. It is smooth and shiny, but can be stiff and resistant to styling.
- Medium (normal) porosity — the cuticles are slightly lifted, so the hair takes up and retains moisture easily. The ideal state.
- High porosity — the cuticles are wide open (often due to chemical or mechanical damage), so the hair absorbs moisture quickly but loses it just as fast. It frizzes, looks dull and is prone to breakage.
Penetrating vs. sealing oils
Penetrating oils
These work their way deep into the hair shaft thanks to their small molecules and strong affinity for keratin. The most important ones are:
- Coconut oil (Cocos Nucifera Oil) — the best-researched penetrating oil, rich in lauric acid. Ideal for low- and medium-porosity hair. Note: on high-porosity hair it can paradoxically cause stiffness.
- Olive oil (Olea Europaea Fruit Oil) — rich in oleic acid, it penetrates well but is heavier than coconut oil.
- Avocado oil (Persea Gratissima Oil) — rich in vitamins A, D and E and unsaturated fatty acids. Excellent for thick, dry hair.
- Babassu oil (Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil) — a lighter alternative to coconut oil, with a similar fatty acid profile.
Sealing oils
These form a protective film on the hair that prevents moisture loss. They don't penetrate the hair's structure, but lock the moisture inside:
- Argan oil (Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil) — light, non-weighing, rich in vitamin E and linoleic acid. A versatile all-rounder.
- Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil) — technically a wax ester rather than an oil. Its composition is close to human sebum, and it helps regulate oil production.
- Sweet almond oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil) — light and moisturising, ideal for fine hair.
- Linseed (flaxseed) oil (Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil) — rich in omega-3 fatty acids, it smooths the hair and adds shine.
Matching the oil to your porosity
Low porosity
Light penetrating oils: coconut and babassu oil. Apply to damp hair — warmth and water help open the tightly closed cuticles. Avoid heavy oils that weigh hair down and make it look greasy.
Medium porosity
You have the widest choice — both penetrating and sealing oils work well. Particularly recommended: argan, jojoba and almond oil.
High porosity
Heavier sealing oils that close open cuticles: avocado, olive and linseed oil. You can also combine a penetrating oil (underneath) with a sealing oil (on top) — a technique known as layered oiling.
What to look for in the INCI list?
Before buying a hair oil, check our ingredient database to see what the product really contains. Ideally the formula should be short — just the oil itself or a blend of oils. Avoid products whose INCI list is dominated by silicones (Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone) with only a touch of oil at the end — that isn't true oiling.
Look for the labels cold-pressed and unrefined — such oils retain more nutrients.
How to oil your hair correctly
- Before washing (dry oiling) — apply oil to dry hair 30 minutes to a few hours before washing. A penetrating oil protects the hair from being stripped during washing.
- On wet hair after washing — a small amount of a light sealing oil locks in moisture. Apply to damp (not soaking wet) hair.
- On dry ends — a few drops of oil smooth the hair and protect it from breakage.
Remember that after pre-wash oiling you should use a suitable shampoo — gentle surfactants may not rinse out a heavy oil.
The most common oiling mistakes
- Using too much oil — 2–3 drops on the ends are enough
- Oiling high-porosity hair with coconut oil — it can make it stiff
- Buying silicone-based "oils" instead of genuine plant oils
- Failing to wash the oil out with a suitable shampoo
Want to check whether your favourite oil is a genuine plant oil? Use our ingredient search.
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FAQ
No — coconut oil works best on low- and medium-porosity hair. On high-porosity hair it can cause stiffness and dryness, because it pushes water out of the hair's interior.
A simple test: drop a clean hair into a glass of water. If it floats on the surface — low porosity. If it sinks slowly — medium. If it drops quickly to the bottom — high. The test isn't 100% reliable, but it gives you a general idea.
Less than you think — 2–5 drops on the ends and lengths are enough, depending on the length and thickness of your hair. Too much will make your hair look greasy.
Yes, and it's actually a good idea — for example, a penetrating oil combined with a sealing one provides all-round benefits. Many ready-made oil blends are composed in exactly this way.
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