Mineral Oil vs Plant Oil in Cosmetics — Safety, Effects and the Comedogenicity Myth

Type "mineral oil" into any cosmetics group and you'll spark a heated debate. Some claim it's carcinogenic and clogs pores; others reply that it's one of the safest and most thoroughly studied cosmetic ingredients out there. Who's right? As usual, the truth lies in the nuances, not the slogans.

What is mineral oil in cosmetics?

Mineral oil (Mineral Oil, INCI: Paraffinum Liquidum) is a refined petrochemical product — a mixture of aliphatic and naphthenic hydrocarbons. The key word is refined: once the raw material has been purified at the refinery (hydrorefining), it is stripped of the polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) that are genuinely mutagenic and carcinogenic.

The distinction is fundamental and enshrined in law:

• MOSH (Mineral Oil Saturated Hydrocarbons) — saturated, refined and approved for use in cosmetics;
• MOAH (Mineral Oil Aromatic Hydrocarbons) — aromatic, potentially genotoxic, and restricted or banned in cosmetic products under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 and SCCS assessments.

In its 2012 opinion (SCCS/1548/12) and its 2018 updates, the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) confirmed the safety of refined mineral oil in cosmetic applications, provided MOAH purity stays below the limit of detection.

The myth of mineral oil comedogenicity

The belief that mineral oil clogs pores comes from studies carried out in the 1970s on the skin of rabbit ears (the Kligman model). That model is now considered inadequate for predicting how human skin reacts — the rabbit's ear is exceptionally sensitive to occlusion.

More recent studies in humans show that cosmetic refined mineral oil exhibits no clinically significant comedogenicity. Products such as Vaseline (Petrolatum) and CeraVe Healing Ointment contain paraffin and petrolatum as their main ingredients and are routinely recommended by dermatologists for treating atopic dermatitis and wounds.

Plant oils — rich chemistry, complex effects

Plant oils are mixtures of fatty-acid triglycerides, phospholipids, plant sterols, tocopherols and polyphenols. Their activity profile is far richer biologically than that of mineral oil:

• Linoleic acid (omega-6) — found in raspberry seed oil, sunflower oil and hemp oil; replenishes skin ceramides and has anti-inflammatory effects;
• Oleic acid (omega-9) — found in olive oil and argan oil; intensely moisturizing, but can increase comedogenicity on oily skin;
• Linolenic acid (omega-3) — found in flaxseed oil and chia oil; strong anti-inflammatory properties;
• Phytosterols and tocopherols — antioxidants that protect skin lipids against peroxidation.

You'll find more information about specific oils in our INCI ingredient encyclopedia.

Safety: comparing the risks

Paradoxically, plant oils carry certain risks that are rarely talked about:

• Oxidation and rancidity — oils rich in essential fatty acids (especially flaxseed and grapeseed oil) are oxidatively unstable. Oxidized oils contain aldehydes and lipid peroxides that can aggravate inflammation;
• Allergic reactions — nut oils (sweet almond, macadamia) can trigger IgE-mediated allergic reactions in people with nut allergies;
• Comedogenicity of oleic acid — in studies on the HaCaT cell line, oleic acid at high concentrations disrupted the function of the epidermal barrier.

Mineral oil, by contrast, is chemically stable, does not oxidize and contains no potential allergens. That makes it a safe occlusive base, particularly in products intended for infants and people with atopic dermatitis.

When to choose mineral oil, when to choose plant oil?

• Mineral oil (Paraffinum Liquidum): recommended in baby-care products, on severely damaged (barrier-compromised) skin, in after-shave balms for sensitive skin, and in hand creams with a strong occlusive action;
• Plant oils: recommended in active serums, body and face oils, and anti-aging products (thanks to their phytoactive components). Check them out in the body oils category;
• Combining the two: many good creams pair mineral oil as an occlusive base with plant oils as carriers for active ingredients — an approach known in pharmacy as an emollient base.

How can you check the quality of mineral oil in a cosmetic?

Independently verifying the MOSH/MOAH quality in a finished product requires specialist GC-MS analysis, which consumers can't perform at home. That's why it's important to vet the manufacturer and its certificates.

In the EU, manufacturers are required to guarantee product safety under Article 10 of Regulation 1223/2009 — the safety report (CPSR) must include an assessment of MOAH contaminants. When buying EU/US brands, the risk is minimized.

Check the presence and rating of specific oils in our ingredient database and compare products in the body oils category.

Please note: this article is for informational purposes only. If you suspect an allergic reaction to a cosmetic ingredient, consult a dermatologist or allergist.

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