Cosmetics for Children — What to Look for in the Ingredients?

A Child's Skin — How Does It Differ from an Adult's?

The skin of newborns and small children differs from adult skin in several important ways. It is 20–30% thinner, has a less developed lipid barrier, a higher pH (closer to neutral — around 6.5–7.0 in a newborn, gradually dropping to about 5.5 over the first years of life) and a larger ratio of body surface area to mass. All of this means that cosmetic ingredients are absorbed more easily and can act more strongly than in adults.

That's why choosing cosmetics for children calls for special care — and a "for children" label is not always a guarantee of safety. Being able to read the INCI ingredient list is key here.

The "For Children" Label — What Does It Really Mean?

In the European Union there is no official definition of a "children's" or "hypoallergenic" cosmetic. A manufacturer can put such a claim on the packaging without meeting any additional certification requirements. The only regulatory distinction is the requirement under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, which obliges manufacturers of cosmetics intended for children under 3 years of age to carry out an additional safety assessment performed by a toxicologist.

This means that a product described as "for children" but not explicitly intended for the under-3 age group does not have to undergo this extra verification. It's therefore worth reading the ingredient list rather than relying on marketing alone.

Ingredients Best Avoided

Fragrance Blends (Parfum / Fragrance)

Fragrance substances are one of the most common contact allergens — this applies to both synthetic and natural blends. The EU requires 26 fragrance allergens to be declared on the packaging (Annex III of Regulation 1223/2009), but many other fragrance compounds hide behind the general term "Parfum". In children's cosmetics, fragrance blends should be kept to a minimum or eliminated entirely.

Synthetic Dyes

Dyes labelled as CI + a number (e.g. CI 42090, CI 19140) serve no skincare function. They exist solely to give the product an attractive colour and can irritate a child's sensitive skin. In cosmetics intended for the youngest, they are unnecessary.

SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate)

A strong anionic surfactant that cleans effectively but can disrupt the skin's lipid barrier. In children, whose barrier is naturally weaker, the risk of dryness and irritation is greater. Better alternatives are gentle glucosides (Coco-Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside) or amphoteric surfactants (Cocamidopropyl Betaine).

Essential Oils

Natural does not mean safe — especially when it comes to a child's skin. Essential oils contain highly biologically active compounds (terpenes, phenols) that can cause allergic reactions or irritation. The European Society of Paediatrics advises caution when using essential oils in children under 2 years of age. On the INCI list they may appear under botanical names, e.g. Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil.

Preservatives with Strong Sensitising Potential

Methylisothiazolinone (MI) and Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI) are preservatives that were banned from leave-on products in the EU in 2013 due to an epidemic of contact allergies. They can still appear in rinse-off products — it's worth avoiding them in children's products.

Ingredients Safe for Children

• Glycerin (Glycerin) — moisturises without the risk of irritation; naturally present in the skin.
• Panthenol (Panthenol) — supports regeneration and soothes irritation.
• Shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) — nourishes and protects the lipid barrier.
• Squalane (Squalane) — a light emollient, well tolerated by sensitive skin.
• Allantoin (Allantoin) — soothing and calming action.

You'll find detailed profiles of these ingredients in the PurScore ingredient encyclopaedia.

What to Watch for When Choosing?

1. Read the INCI list, not the marketing copy. "Natural" and "gentle" are unregulated terms.
2. Choose fragrance-free products — or ones with a minimal amount of fragrance substances.
3. Look for gentle surfactants in cleansing products (glucosides instead of SLS).
4. Check whether the product has undergone an additional assessment — reputable brands of products intended for infants state this on the packaging.
5. Less is more — the shorter the ingredient list, the lower the risk of a reaction.

EU Regulation — What's Worth Knowing

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 is the fundamental piece of legislation governing cosmetics in the European Union. For products intended for children under 3 years of age it requires an additional safety assessment that takes into account the specifics of a child's skin (thickness, permeability, surface-area-to-body-mass ratio). The manufacturer must document this assessment in a safety report (CPSR — Cosmetic Product Safety Report).

It's also worth knowing that certain ingredients (e.g. salicylic acid) are banned in the EU in cosmetics for children under 3, with the exception of shampoos.

Summary

The "for children" label is a starting point, not a guarantee of safety. What matters most is reading the INCI list and avoiding fragrance substances, dyes, SLS and essential oils. A short ingredient list with safe bases (glycerin, panthenol, shea butter) is the best strategy for caring for the skin of the youngest.

Check the ingredients of a children's cosmetic →