Are Birch Tar and Coal Tar in Anti-Dandruff Shampoos Safe?
Is tar shampoo safe? EU rules on coal tar in anti-dandruff shampoos, concentration limits, side effects and safer alternatives explained.
Birch tar and coal tar – what exactly are they?
In discussions about anti-dandruff shampoos, two terms that are often confused come up: birch tar and coal tar. They are different substances, although both are produced by the dry distillation of organic materials.
- Birch tar (Pix betulina / Birch Tar) – a product of the distillation of birch bark or wood. In cosmetics it is used as an anti-dandruff agent that soothes inflammation of the scalp and acts as an antiseptic.
- Coal tar (Coal Tar / Pix Lithanthracis) – a product of the distillation of hard coal. It is used in dermatological products to treat psoriasis, seborrhoeic dandruff and scalp eczema.
Both ingredients contain polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), which are subject to cosmetic regulations and toxicological research. You'll find the full list of permitted substances in the PurScore ingredient encyclopaedia.
What does EU law say about coal tar in cosmetics?
This is where the key difference between the European and American markets comes in:
In the European Union, coal tar at a concentration above 0.5% is banned in cosmetics intended for use on the scalp. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 (Annexes II and III) governs the list of prohibited and restricted ingredients. Coal tar at higher concentrations appears on the list of prohibited or heavily restricted ingredients – its use in cosmetic products on the EU market is only possible at very low concentrations and for specific applications.
In the USA, the FDA permits coal tar at concentrations of 0.5–5% in OTC (over-the-counter) products as an active ingredient for dandruff and psoriasis. As a result, you can find imported shampoos with higher coal tar concentrations on the Polish online market – it's worth checking their regulatory status before buying.
Birch tar (Birch Tar) is permitted in the EU in rinse-off cosmetics, subject to appropriate concentration limits. Regulatory data can be verified in the CosIng database maintained by the European Commission.
Are tar shampoos available in Poland safe?
Tar shampoos sold legally on the EU market (including in Poland) must comply with the requirements of Regulation 1223/2009. This means that:
- PAH concentrations (including benzopyrene) are limited to safe levels.
- The manufacturer is required to have a Safety Assessment carried out by a qualified expert.
- The product has technical documentation available to the supervisory authorities.
This means that certified tar shampoos sold in pharmacies and drugstores in Poland comply with European cosmetic safety law. It does not, however, mean that they are entirely free of any risk – particularly with long-term use.
When looking for safe anti-dandruff products, it's worth browsing the shampoos available in the PurScore database, where you can filter products by ingredients and safety ratings.
Potential side effects and controversies
Despite regulatory acceptance, birch tar and coal tar raise scientific questions:
- Carcinogenic potential – PAHs are classified by IARC (the International Agency for Research on Cancer) as possibly or probably carcinogenic. This, however, mainly concerns occupational exposure (e.g. road workers, miners) or the inhalation of dust. Cosmetic skin use at low concentrations is assessed by the SCCS (Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) as an acceptable risk when the limits are met.
- Photosensitisation – birch tar and coal tar increase the skin's sensitivity to light. After using a shampoo containing these ingredients, you should avoid prolonged sun exposure of the scalp.
- Discolouration – they can cause yellow or brown staining of light-coloured hair with regular use.
- Irritation – in people with a sensitive scalp, irritation, itching or dryness is possible.
Who should avoid tar shampoos?
- Pregnant and breastfeeding women (as a precaution, due to insufficient research).
- People with a sensitive or irritated scalp.
- People allergic to polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons.
- Children (especially infants and young children – tar products are not intended for this group).
In any case of doubt, it's worth consulting a dermatologist or trichologist.
Effective alternatives without controversial ingredients
Modern cosmetic dermatology offers anti-dandruff ingredients with a good safety profile:
- Piroctone Olamine – one of the best-tolerated antifungal ingredients, effective even at low concentrations.
- Zinc Pyrithione (ZPT) – a classic anti-dandruff ingredient, well studied, permitted in the EU at up to 1% in shampoos.
- Selenium Sulfide – used in pharmacy shampoos, effective against seborrhoeic dandruff.
- Salicylic Acid – a keratolytic that helps exfoliate the scalp.
- Ketoconazole – an active ingredient available in prescription shampoos or OTC at low concentrations.
It's worth checking out shampoos with these ingredients in our shampoo category and comparing their full INCI list.
Summary
Birch tar and coal tar in anti-dandruff shampoos are regulatorily permitted in the EU at low concentrations, and their use in certified products is considered safe. Nevertheless, they contain PAHs, which can raise legitimate concerns with long-term use or with products from outside the EU. Sensitive individuals, pregnant women and children should look for alternatives with a better safety profile.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical or dermatological advice. If you have problems with your scalp or dandruff, consult a dermatologist or trichologist.
FAQ
In the European Union, coal tar is only permitted in cosmetics at very low concentrations (below 0.5%). Products sold legally in Polish pharmacies and drugstores meet these requirements. Shampoos with higher concentrations (e.g. 5%) are OTC products available mainly in the USA and may not comply with EU requirements.
The polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) contained in tar are classified by IARC as possibly carcinogenic. However, the SCCS (the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety) assesses that cosmetic use at the regulatorily permitted concentrations carries an acceptable level of risk. Caution is nonetheless advised with long-term use.
Tar shampoos are usually intended for use 2–3 times a week, not every day. Using them too often can worsen scalp dryness and increase exposure to PAHs. Manufacturers usually provide specific recommendations on the packaging.
Safe and well-studied alternatives include shampoos with Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Pyrithione (up to 1% in the EU), salicylic acid or Ketoconazole. They are effective against dandruff and have a better safety profile for everyday use.
Check products
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