Does SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) Irritate Skin? Facts and Myths
Does SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate) really irritate skin? See what science and the SCCS say about safe levels and who this common detergent may affect.
What is SLES and why is it controversial?
Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) is one of the most common surfactants in cleansing cosmetics. You'll find it in most shampoos, shower gels and foams. Its popularity comes down to good foaming ability at a low cost.
SLES vs SLS - what's the difference?
SLES has undergone an ethoxylation process, which makes it gentler than SLS. That's why it's so widely used in shower gels. Studies confirming the irritating effects of SLS don't automatically apply to SLES.
What do the SCCS and EU regulations say?
The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) and Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 set the permitted concentrations of ingredients. SLES is considered safe in rinse-off cosmetics at levels of up to around 20%. The CosIng database classifies it as a substance approved for adults at correct concentrations.
Does SLES really irritate the skin?
In most healthy adults, SLES at typical concentrations does not cause irritation. Problems may arise with: atopic skin (atopic dermatitis), frequent washing, high concentrations in a product, and the historical trace contamination with 1,4-dioxane (which modern processes minimise).
- Atopic and sensitive skin - a weakened skin barrier may react to low concentrations of SLES
- Frequent washing - degradation of the skin's lipid layer
- High concentration - products with SLES high on the INCI list are more aggressive
How to spot SLES on a label?
On the INCI list, look for the name Sodium Laureth Sulfate. The higher up the list, the higher the concentration. Analyse a product in our ingredient encyclopedia, where SLES is described in detail with a safety rating.
Who should avoid SLES?
People who should avoid or limit its use include those with atopic dermatitis, those with a contact allergy to sulfates, those with a very dry and sensitive scalp, and children under 3 years of age. Alternatives include sulfosuccinates, coco-betaines and alkyl glucosides.
Summary
SLES is one of the most thoroughly studied cosmetic ingredients and is safe for healthy adults. It is not carcinogenic, nor does it disrupt the endocrine system at typical doses. For people with sensitive skin, it's worth considering gentler surfactants.
This article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Consult a dermatologist.
FAQ
No. SLES has undergone an ethoxylation process that makes it gentler than SLS. SLES is less irritating and is more often used in products aimed at a wide range of users.
There is no scientific evidence confirming that SLES is carcinogenic at cosmetic concentrations. The SCCS and EU regulations (Regulation 1223/2009) permit its use as safe.
People with atopic dermatitis should be cautious. A weakened skin barrier may react to SLES even at low concentrations. Products with gentler surfactants are recommended.
Check where SLES appears on the INCI list - the higher up, the higher the concentration. PurScore.pl analyses formulas and provides a safety rating.
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