Is Butylated Hydroxyanisole (BHA) Carcinogenic? A Risk Assessment
Is butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) carcinogenic? We look at what the SCCS and EU rules say about this controversial cosmetic preservative. Facts, no panic.
What is butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA)?
Butylated hydroxyanisole, commonly abbreviated as BHA, is a synthetic antioxidant used in cosmetics mainly as a preservative that prevents fats from oxidising. In cosmetics it acts as a stabiliser, extending the shelf life of oil-rich products such as lipsticks and lip glosses, lip balms and face creams. It is also found in food and pharmaceutical products.
In a cosmetic context, BHA appears in the formulas of many make-up products, where its concentration can be higher than in typical creams. It is this exposure that raises the most questions among consumers.
Where do the cancer concerns come from?
The debate over whether BHA causes cancer stems primarily from animal studies carried out in the 1980s and 1990s. These showed that long-term administration of high doses of BHA to rats and mice led to tumour development in the forestomach, an organ that humans do not have. This anatomical difference is key to interpreting the results.
On this basis, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classified BHA as a Group 2B substance, possibly carcinogenic to humans. This means there is limited evidence from animal studies but insufficient data on humans. Group 2B is the broadest category and covers hundreds of substances, including aloe (aloe leaf extract), styrene and many compounds commonly present in everyday surroundings.
What does the EU's Scientific Committee (SCCS) say?
The key body assessing the safety of cosmetic ingredients in the European Union is the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). In its opinions, the SCCS has reviewed the available data on BHA in the context of topical use.
EU Regulation 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (the Cosmetics Regulation) governs the use of ingredients based on SCCS assessments. BHA is permitted in cosmetics at concentrations up to 0.5% as an antioxidant. The regulation assumes that at such concentrations and with topical use (applied to the skin, not ingested) the health risk is acceptably low.
It is worth stressing that EU regulations are among the strictest in the world. The list of banned and restricted cosmetic ingredients (Annexes II and III of Regulation 1223/2009) is regularly updated in line with the latest scientific data.
BHA in cosmetics versus BHA in food: an important difference
Most of the alarming reports about BHA relate to its presence in food, where it is ingested directly. In cosmetics, BHA is used topically, and its absorption through the skin at the doses used in formulations is many times lower than the doses tested in animal studies.
The exposure assessment carried out by the SCCS takes into account the actual amount of cosmetic applied to the skin, the degree of absorption through the epidermis and the frequency of use. The results of these calculations form the basis for setting safe concentration limits.
BHA and hormone disruption: a separate issue
Apart from the cancer question, BHA is suspected of having weak oestrogenic properties, meaning it may potentially mimic the action of female hormones. In vitro studies (on cells) have shown such activity, but its clinical significance at real-world exposure from cosmetics is a matter of scientific debate.
The European Commission is working on a comprehensive approach to endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs) as part of the European Green Deal strategy. BHA is on the list of substances being monitored in this context.
How to check whether your cosmetic contains BHA
On the INCI ingredient list, BHA appears under the name BUTYLATED HYDROXYANISOLE. It most often appears towards the end of the list, which suggests a low concentration (ingredients are listed in order of decreasing concentration above 1%). You can find detailed ingredient information in the PurScore ingredient encyclopaedia.
If you want to avoid BHA, look for products labelled BHA-free or use ingredient analysis tools. Alternative antioxidants include vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and rosemary extract.
Risk assessment summary
- IARC classification: Group 2B (possibly carcinogenic), based on animal data, with no evidence from human studies
- Status in the EU: Permitted in cosmetics up to 0.5% (Regulation 1223/2009)
- Route of exposure: Topical application to the skin, fundamentally different from dietary intake
- Hormonal properties: Weak oestrogenic activity in vitro, monitored by the European Commission
- Overall assessment: The risk from cosmetic use is considered low, though sensitive consumers may prefer products without this ingredient
Note: this article is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. If you have any concerns about skin reactions, consult a dermatologist.
FAQ
BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) is used in lipstick at concentrations of up to 0.5%, which is permitted under EU Regulation 1223/2009. At these concentrations and with topical use, the risk is assessed as low, but anyone wishing to avoid this ingredient can look for alternatives labelled BHA-free.
IARC classified BHA as Group 2B (possibly carcinogenic) on the basis of studies in rats, which developed forestomach tumours at high doses. Humans do not have this organ, and exposure through cosmetics is many times lower than the test doses.
On the INCI label, look for the name BUTYLATED HYDROXYANISOLE. It usually appears at the end of the ingredient list, which indicates a low concentration. You can also use the ingredient search tool at PurScore.pl.
Natural antioxidants used instead of BHA include tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and rosemary extract (Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract). They offer comparable effectiveness without the safety controversy.
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