Cosmetic Certifications: COSMOS, NATRUE, Ecocert — What They Really Mean

Drugstore shelves are crowded with marks, seals and logos that hint at being natural. The trouble is, they don't all mean the same thing — and some mean nothing at all. In this guide we break down the three most important cosmetic certifications in Europe: COSMOS, NATRUE and Ecocert.

Why do certifications matter?

In the European Union there is no single, official definition of a "natural" or "organic" cosmetic. Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 governs the safety of cosmetics, but not their "naturalness". That gap is filled by certifications — voluntary standards that define what can and cannot appear in the formula of a certified product.

Without a certification, the word "natural" on the packaging is nothing more than the manufacturer's own claim. With a certification, it becomes an externally verified promise. The difference is enormous, as we explain in detail in our guide to reading the INCI list.

COSMOS — the European gold standard

COSMOS (COSMetic Organic and Natural Standard) is a shared standard developed by five European certification bodies: Ecocert, BDIH, Cosmébio, ICEA and Soil Association. It has been in force since 2017 and has become the de facto norm in Europe.

The two COSMOS levels

• COSMOS NATURAL — requires ingredients to be of natural origin (with permitted exceptions for preservatives and emulsifiers from a positive list). There is no minimum percentage threshold for organic ingredients.
• COSMOS ORGANIC — at least 95% of the plant-based ingredients must come from organic farming. At least 20% of the total product must be organic (10% in the case of rinse-off products such as shampoos).

What does COSMOS ban?

• GMOs and GMO-derived ingredients
• Nanoparticles (with certain exceptions)
• Ionising radiation in the production process
• Silicones, parabens, PEGs, SLS/SLES
• Artificial colourants and synthetic fragrance compositions
• Animal testing (across the entire supply chain)

Packaging is also subject to scrutiny — COSMOS requires recyclable or biodegradable materials and bans PVC.

NATRUE — a three-tier system

NATRUE is a Belgian non-profit organisation based in Brussels. Its certification stands out for its three-level classification:

The NATRUE levels

1. Natural cosmetics (★) — the minimum share of natural ingredients depends on the product category (e.g. a face cream needs at least 70%). Certain processed natural ingredients are permitted, along with a maximum amount of "nature-identical" substances.
2. Partly organic cosmetics (★★) — at least 70% of the natural and naturally processed ingredients must come from certified organic farming.
3. Organic cosmetics (★★★) — at least 95% of the natural and naturally processed ingredients must come from organic farming.

What sets NATRUE apart?

• No "lite" version — a brand cannot certify a single product as bait while selling the rest without certification. At least 75% of a given product line must meet NATRUE's requirements.
• Positive list — instead of banning specific substances, NATRUE defines what is allowed. Anything not on the list is automatically excluded.
• Independent audit — certification is carried out by external, independent auditors.

Ecocert — the French pioneer

Ecocert is a French certification body founded in 1991, originally for organic food. It has been certifying cosmetics since 2003. Today Ecocert is one of the certification bodies operating under the COSMOS standard, but it also has its own, earlier standard.

Ecocert requirements (its own standard)

• Natural cosmetics — at least 95% of ingredients of natural origin
• Natural and organic cosmetics — at least 95% of plant-based ingredients from organic farming, and at least 10% of the total product organic

Ecocert vs. COSMOS — what's the difference?

Since 2017 Ecocert has moved over to the COSMOS standard, so new certifications are issued as COSMOS ORGANIC by Ecocert or COSMOS NATURAL by Ecocert. Older products may still carry the original Ecocert mark. In practice — if you see a new product with Ecocert certification, it meets the COSMOS requirements.

Side by side on one screen

How to check whether a certification is genuine

1. COSMOS — go to cosmos-standard.org and search for the brand or product in the database of certified entities.
2. NATRUE — visit natrue.org/our-label/natrue-labelled-products and search for the product by name.
3. Ecocert — at ecocert.com there is a search tool for certified companies.

If the product isn't in the database, the certification is fake, expired or applies to a different product from the same brand. Also check the ingredients in our PurScore ingredient database.

Which certification should you choose?

All three certifications guarantee a high standard — far higher than no certification at all. If you have to pick:

• COSMOS ORGANIC — the best choice if you care about organic farming and eco-friendly packaging
• NATRUE ★★★ — the strictest requirements for the share of organic ingredients
• COSMOS NATURAL — a good option when you're looking for a cosmetic free of controversial synthetic ingredients, but without an organic requirement

Summary

Cosmetic certifications aren't marketing — they're externally verified standards with concrete requirements. The key is not to confuse a certification with a pretty logo. COSMOS, NATRUE and Ecocert take different approaches, but each one offers a real guarantee that a product's formula has been verified. Check the product you're interested in using the PurScore search tool and compare its formula with certified alternatives.